Monday, December 6

Time's a flyin'!

Salut tout le monde!

Since I've been slacking off on my blog updates, this post is going to be a whirlwind tour of the past month. Ready, set, GO!

Weekend of November 21st (cough the best day of the year cough)
Place: Londres, Royaume-Uni (London, UK)
Pourquoi? My 21st birthday!

Still a tourist, whichever country I'm in :)
Yes, I went to the country of HRH and Harry Potter! With the world in a wedding frenzy over William and Kate, we explored London and faked Bri'ish accents. Seeing Harry Potter was a must, of course, but here are a couple other things we did:
1. Ate a traditional meal in the Russian restaurant below our kind of sketchy hostel
2. Went to Oxford for the day (FYI: Oxford=six hundred years older than Willamette... damn, son!)
3. Stumbled across one of the cutest Christmas markets ever, as well as
4. A super badass underground skate park down by the river
5. Struggled with silly non-Euro coins

Weekend of November 28th
Place: Paris-- Catacombs, Montmartre, Louvre, Ile-de-la-Cité, Petit Palais
Pourquoi? My aunt visited me for Thanksgiving

In the catacombs--DUN DUN DUN!

My aunt's visit let me revisit some of my favorite touristy places in Paris--like the catacombs (above). Over six million Parisians are stored there, their bones arranged in decorative and chilling patterns. 

It was very nice to have family in town for Thanksgiving. Paris was embracing the holiday spirit; the first snow of the season was when my aunt and I were walking around the Christmas Market. 

Weekend of December 4th
Place: Angers, France
Pourquoi? To visit my WU friends studying at l'Université Catholique de l'Ouest

Angers (a snowy, adorable, traditional, small French town)

It was so fantastic to see WU people again--especially such awesome WU people :)
[Rachel, Casey, and I at their favorite hangout spot downtown]
Even though I could only go for two days, I had a blast just hanging out with my (WU) friends again. The more I travel and the more people I meet, the more I realize that Willamette really does attract my sort of people (not to say that I don't love the rest of you, too!). It was also interesting to see what my life would have been like had I done the Angers program instead of CUPA. I'm still happy with my choice, and I'm happy that I know that for certain now. Paris will always have a piece of my heart. 

Alright, y'all. Now you're updated! What's up next for me? Two more weeks of classes/finals/papers/etc, then Christmas with my parents in Germany. Then two more weeks of goodbyes and nostalgia in Paris and then (and this deserves capitals) IT'S WILLAMETTE DAMNIT!

Happy late Thanksgiving, merry early Christmas, and happy premature New Years :)

Over and out,
Anna

Friday, November 12

Pizza, Pasta, and Gelato


Buongiorno! Last weekend, six friends and I went to Rome, rented a cute little apartment, and had a fabulous three day vacation. Oh, and we also ate our weight in pizza, pasta, and as much gelato as we could get our hands on.

You're looking at the three flavored trifecta: Ferrero Roche, chocolate orange, and mint creme. Yeah, I know.
We left on Thursday, flying into the outskirts of the city. It was strange to be in a country where I really didn't speak the language at all. Everyone was very friendly though, and I noticed a striking difference between Italians and Parisians in terms of cheerfulness towards strangers.

We took a bus into downtown and then managed the Rome metro for a couple stops. Our apartment was literally a block away from the Coliseum, so this is the first view that we got when we climbed the stairs out of the metro stop:


The apartment was super cute, and there was plenty of room for all seven of us. I was really pleased with our decisions to stay here instead of getting a room in a hostel.

Adorable! We even had a little balcony.
We started early the next day, heading straight to the Vatican. We did all the touristy stuff-- St. Peter's Basilica, the Sistine Chapel, and the Musei Vaticani. I don't care what you say about their religion, but you can't deny that they've got crazy digs. I've never seen so much marble, gold inlay, and tapestry in one place before. The Swiss Guards are quite a sight as well. 



After the Vatican, we wandered around Rome for a bit--getting gelato (delicious!), visiting Trevi Fountain, and stopping into little boutiques and souvenir shops. The weather all weekend was beautiful and such a nice change from the Paris gloom.

On Saturday, we went to the Coliseum early in the morning. It was stunning to see the ruins up close--the Romans really were amazing at constructing. There were displays of the different animal bones that archeologists have found, showing what kind of animals were set up against the gladiators. The bears I understood, but not so much the ostriches. The Roman Forum is right next to the Coliseum. That's where the Romans used to congregate, socialize, and, if they were senators, vote. There's not a lot left, but you can see where there were once buildings, columns, archways, and open spaces. Rome is basically a series of layers--we're on the top layer, but then twenty feet down are Roman houses. It makes me wonder what's beneath the Roman layer, and if we'll ever risk disturbing the ruins to find out.

Part of the old Forum
It was a fantastic trip, and I'm really glad I got to experience a completely different part of Europe. On one hand, it made me appreciate Paris more--I can speak the language, I know my way around, I know where to go to be happy. On the other hand, leaving and coming back made me see Paris for what it really is, without the magic of its glorified reputation--it's dark and gloomy, filled with busy people who don't bother being nice for every conversation they have. I still love Paris, don't get me wrong, but I think I also won't be heartbroken to leave. I will miss the people I've met and the cultural opportunities that Paris offers, but I will be ready to go home in two months. I had my first "bad" homesick day this week, and it really did suck. There's no solution when the only thing that will make you feel better is across an ocean. It was just a fleeting down period though, and I was happy to see it gone. I have two more months in Paris that I need to take advantage of to the utmost! 

Wednesday, October 27

A Dream World (and Reality)

Salut!

I finally went up La Tour Eiffel, which made me feel incredibly touristy but was still worth it. The view is gorgeous, and it was really clear the day I went up so I could see all the way to Montmartre. I must say, though--Paris looks somehow less majestic without the Tour's silhouette. The only time you can't see the Eiffel Tower is when you're on top of it, after all.

The view of the Seine from La Tour Eiffel
Last night was amazing amazing amazing. I went to the Opéra Garnier to see the ballet Paquita. Not only was I in one of the most spectacular buildings around, but the dancers were phenomenal. Ballet always tugs at my heartstrings a bit. There's something breathtaking about an entire stage of pirouettes or the way male dancers can leap and seem to hover mid-air for a couple of seconds.

The story of Paquita, from what I could understand, is that of a gypsy girl who falls in love with a noble and protects him from the assassination attempt of her abusive gypsy boyfriend. The happy ending is a bit too perfect: she finds out that--shocker!--she's actually noble too, so they can get married without disturbing the social status quo. The costumes were stunning--lots of flowing gowns and rich colors--and we had phenomenal seats. I can now say that I've seen a ballet at the Opéra from my very own private box.

The entryway during intermission

This is the only non-blurry photo I got of the dancers (during bows). Unfortunately, the principal dancers aren't on stage, but you can still see the elaborate costumes and general splendor :)

Paquita and her prince (horrible quality photo, I know... I blame the stage lights)
Now, onto a completely different subject...

You may or may not remember that this blog is serving as one of the assignments that justifies the half-credit I'm receiving for being a good study abroad student. In order to do that, I need to do more than just post cool pics and brag about French awesomeness--I have to actually write about my internal deliberations, thoughts, and lightbulb moments. There are a couple subjects that I need to address and while I'm pretty sure I've covered them somewhat unintentionally in early posts, I thought it might be good to spell it out a little and reflect on my semester so far.

Prompt: How is the education system you are experiencing different from what you are accustomed to in the U.S.? From your perspective as a student in the U.S. how is it beneficial and disadvantageous?
Consider the perspective of your host-country’s students, how is it beneficial to them? Is it unfavorable to them in any way? Talk about your perceptions of the education system and how your perceptions might be different if you came from a different background.

The French education system is surprisingly different, although I'd been prepared for that by various organizations (WU, CUPA, etc.) before coming here. Students are given much more autonomy in their mastery of material. Instead of getting a syllabus for every class where your weekly reading assignments are listed, the dates for the tests given, and the expectations of the professor spelled out, French students are given--at most!--a list of books that the professor has deemed pertinent to the subject of the class. The list could be as few as four books (like in my poetry class) or as many as 40 (like my history class!). It is up to the student to buy or check out from the library the books that he or she thinks are the most important or helpful and study parallel to the lectures the professor gives in class. 

There's no safety net--you can literally 'get away' with not doing a bit of work all semester, and the professor won't know until you bomb that last final or paper. (Though there are usually midterm-esque assignments to at least somewhat prevent this). I think this is beneficial in that the student has more control over their own education. Say the professor is lecturing one day on WWI. The student can go home and read broadly about the subject, or focus on certain countries, the role of women, the influence of the war on the economy--whatever the student finds most interesting. On the downside, I feel like it creates a lot of confusion and results in a more scattered knowledge base. At the end of every class I go to, there are students who approach the professor to double check what they should be reading, what to focus on for next week, if there's going to be an assignment coming up--all of the things a syllabus could clear up. There's less busy work, but there are therefore fewer assignments to count towards your final grade. There's more autonomy, but that leaves more room for student misunderstanding/error. A professor of mine recently chewed out a student who had just given a presentation because he didn't cover everything she thought he should have, when all the professor had done to assign the presentation was hand him the text and tell him what day he was presenting on. I'm sure French students would find the US system horribly over-structured, repressive, and frantic--specific readings due every week? worksheets? weekly quizzes?--but I must say I miss it more than a little. I'll definitely welcome any syllabus I get back at WU this spring. 

Prompt: Describe the perceptions of the U.S. in your host country. Are there a range of perceptions or are they general? Are they what you expected? Do host-nationals ask you about the U.S.? What do they ask? What do you think creates these perceptions?

Being American always seems to get some sort of reaction, whether good or bad. Socially, the reputation of Americans (specifically of young women) is that they are easy, provocative, overly outgoing, and continuously cheerful. I've been told that if you walk into a club, you can point out who is American by how... provocatively they dance. There have been men on the metro who certainly seemed to think that I would have sex with them at the drop of a hat because I'm from the States. I can only assume this reputation is due to our overactive film/music/etc industry. We aren't all Britney Spears though. 

I've only had two interactions in which US politics was specifically mentioned. The first was not long after I'd gotten here. I went to the store to buy a cell phone, which of course is a complicated and time consuming process in any country and language. The woman working there thankfully spoke some English, so we chatted in Franglish in between discussing buying minutes and using my phone charger. She asked me about Obama--if I liked him, if I had voted for him, if I thought he was handsome... Ok, so it clearly wasn't all about politics. She was very happy that he was in office and seemed to have a very positive outlook on the US. She seemed more curious about my feelings than anything else. Oh, and she thinks Barack is smokin' hott. 

The second interaction was with a Swedish exchange student in one of my literature classes. He was talking about Sweden and how they are dealing with the economy and the weakness of the euro and the EU in general. He seemed frustrated at Sweden's position on the political power ladder. He was also curious about how much hope and change I saw in America's future post-Obama, but his feelings toward the US were definitely more complicated than the cell phone girl's. He sees the US as a bully, but a necessary bully who "takes care of things others don't" (even though we tend to stick our noses in places we shouldn't). He thinks that it's time for Europe to take over as the world power but at the same time he is much less opposed to Obama-led US hegemony than Bush-led. 

Moral of the story: Go Obama! 

Ok, I think that's about enough reflection for one night. Tomorrow, it's time to get a Halloween costume and go grocery shopping... ahh, tis the life :)
 

Monday, October 18

Giverny

Salut!

France is getting colder and more wintery as the days go by, but fortunately I had the chance to go to Giverny right before the chill set in. Giverny, among other things, is the resting place of Claude Monet and the town in which he built a gorgeous home and designed a garden exactly to his liking. The flowers were right at the end of their season but still looked gorgeous and the house would be quaint no matter the weather.

The home of Claude Monet (plus tourists). Located about an hour from Paris, Monet used to hold many parties and weekend getaways for important Parisians of his day.

Monet's gardens provided the inspiration for many of his paintings. You might recognize a very famous lily pond and bridge below.

Lily pond

The view from Monet's bedroom window

The pathway connecting the two gardens

It was a wonderful visit and a wonderful day!

Thursday, October 14

Raincheck

Well, my last post certainly was optimistic, wasn't it. I survived my first week of French university classes (with the help of a grève and some coincidence).

To backtrack a bit, I had an interesting weekend. I experienced my first French-style house party (in my house, no less). My host sister had a 'few' friends over Friday night and several of them partied so late they were there when I woke up Saturday morning. I really enjoyed talking with them, though, and it was nice to just interact with French young people in a non-school situation. Hopefully I'll be seeing some of them again soon. On Saturday night, we (CUPA peeps) went to a boîte, a French nightclub. It ended up being pretty touristy/international, with lots of other American and Erasmus students, but just the fact that it was a block away from Invalides and right along the bank of the Seine made it pretty awesome. (The friendliness of French men, however, can be... less that awesome.)

After a fun weekend, I was nerdily excited for classes--and my first one didn't let me down. It's a poetry class focused on Symbolism, Mallarmé, and the idea of "book-objects" in which the artist doesn't just write the poems but also has creative input in everything from the illustrations to the typeface. On Tuesday, France was striking (aren't they always?) so both of my classes were cancelled. Actually, they weren't really cancelled, it was more like the professors just didn't show up for the first day of class. Oh, strikes...

Wednesday I had two history classes, one of which was great and one of which was terrifying. The great one was about Europe in the 19th century, so of course I loved it ;) The terrifying one totally shot down my confidence. It wasn't that I couldn't understand the material (French politics post-Napoleon... okay maybe that was a small part of the problem), but that I literally could not understand the words coming out of the professor's mouth. I don't think they were words, actually. She was like a French Gilmore Girl on crack. Her French was just too fast and too mumbled and I left the class feeling panicked and already stressed about the coursework. That was my first (and only? fingers crossed!) super depressed moment thus far of study abroad. How on earth was I supposed to take this class for an entire semester when I couldn't follow 3 hours of lecture? Easy--drop the class! By happy coincidence, I ran into another CUPA student earlier today who is taking a different (and awesome sounding! History of 20th Century Wars through Literature and Film) class the same day that I've since decided to switch into.

So thank you, coincidence. You saved me from a stressful semester. I've been restored to the excited first-week-of-school student that I typically am, and I'm actually not dreading my first French homework this weekend. Also on the schedule for this weekend: Giverny!

Wednesday, October 6

Dancing Through a Foreign Land

Bonsoir! It's 11PM on Wednesday night and I just got home from nearly two hours of sweaty, heart-racing, muscle quivering ballet. I haven't danced since high school, so I know what my body is supposed to be doing but I just can't quite contort myself into actually pulling it off.

But my abilities or lack thereof are not the point of this post. I'm more intrigued by the class itself. Yes, the language barrier was a minor problem. Keeping in mind that the class had nearly 30 students in it and that occasionally I just couldn't hear the instructions, I won't deny that sometimes I messed up simply because I didn't know such-and-such word. However, the actual ballet terms are all what I remember them to be (and all French, I'd like to point out): plié, tendu, rélévé, etc. The biggest struggle for me was adapting to the new teaching style, the number of students in the room, the speed with which instructions were given out, the routines that older students knew that I don't yet--well, you get the idea. The instructor could have been speaking English or Gobbledygook and I probably still would have done just as well or just as poorly as I did tonight.

I don't really know where exactly I'm going with this, but I'm hoping that when I start university classes on Monday I'll be able to apply some broader lesson learned. Of course, in my European history course it will make a difference if the professor speaks Gobbledygook, but no matter what troubles I have with the French language aspect of my classes I'm hoping to remember that starting any new class is like walking on a tight rope. On the first day, you never know the professor's temperament, the classroom routines that at first seem terrifying but eventually become normal, or what exactly your role as a student is in that specific classroom.

This is my promise to myself: I will remember that I still know how to be a student (even though I'm in France), that I still know how to adapt to a subject/professor/class (even if it's all in French), and that I will absolutely definitely struggle in the beginning (just like I would if it was all in English).

I hope my ramblings made at least a bit of sense. Hold me to that promise!

Bonne nuit, goodnight, au revoir.

Monday, September 27

Strasbourg, etc.

Salut!

Well, I'm two weeks in! This week we're finishing up orientation and choosing what 'real' classes we're going to take, and then my Parisian student life begins. As a celebration of the end of orientation, CUPA took all of the students and administrators to Strasbourg for the weekend. 

We had to be at the train station early Saturday, so spirits were kind of low and sleepy on the way there. Taking the TGV from Paris - Strasbourg only took a little over two hours, so we were able to have almost an entire day of sightseeing and fun. 

The cathédrale is absolutely enormous, so you can see it towering over all the other buildings almost as soon as you enter the city. The storefronts and homes were in the German style and the entire town looks like something from Epcot Center at Disneyworld. 

The cathédrale (it's too big to fit in one picture!)


Houses along the canal (taken through a rain streaked window)


We took a boat tour (covered, thank goodness! It was raining!) through the canals and saw a lot more of the town as well as some of the bigger landmarks. 

The European Parliament building (and a reflection of the lady sitting in front of me...)

On Sunday we took a bus to the smaller town of Obernai. The château du Haut-Kœnigsbourg is on a mountain overlooking the town, and the weather was clear enough to see around for miles. The château was built in 1079 by Frédéric de Hofenstaufen, but partially burnt down in 1462 during an attack and then was under siege and captured during the 30 Years War. It was nearly destroyed and thus abandoned. Between 1901 and 1908, it was restored by German architect and archeologist Bobo Ebhardt and is now a historical site belonging to France. 

The front of the château

Yeah, my dining room looks like that too
Looking out the battlements at the valley below
After returning to Obernai, we had a an "Initiation aux vins d'Alsace avec dégustation" (Intro to Alsacian wines with tasting) led by Frédéric Voné, a maître sommelier. He literally has a degree in wines, so he talked about the finer points of wine: la robe (the color and appearance), la diversité arômatique (which is linked with the wine's origins and it's quality), and les saveurs gustatives (the acidity, sweetness, and overall flavor of the wine). And, of course, we tasted several types of Alsacian wine using proper etiquette and wine tasting-ness (the swirling, the sniffing, and the spitting!). 

When it was time to get on the train home Sunday afternoon, I had an "oh my gosh!" moment. By coming home, I was coming to PARIS! I think it's finally sunk in that I'm here to live and learn and play--for four months! It's not a vacation, but a temporary home and an unforgettable adventure. Bring it on!